Start at the south exit of Nippori Station (JR Yamanote Line). Turn right and walk west along Nippori Chuo-dori.
Nippori has been a transportation hub since the Edo period. The name means 'place of the sun's descent' — travelers have passed through here for centuries.
Turn left at the first major intersection. Walk 200m until you see the wooden sign for Yanaka Ginza. Enter the covered shopping street.
This 100-year-old shopping street survived the WWII bombing that destroyed much of Tokyo. The 'shitamachi' atmosphere here is authentic — notice the wooden shopfronts and the lack of chain stores.
Exit Yanaka Ginza at the west end. Turn right and walk 150m to the cemetery entrance. Tenno-ji Temple is inside the grounds, straight ahead.
The last shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, is buried here. Tenno-ji's bronze Buddha (Daibutsu) was cast in 1690 and is one of Tokyo's oldest large Buddha statues.
Exit the cemetery at the southwest gate. Turn left and walk 100m. The museum is on your right, behind a stone wall and garden.
This former residence of sculptor Fumio Asakura (1883–1964) combines a Western-style studio with a traditional Japanese house and garden. The garden alone is worth the visit.
Continue west for 180m. Look for the narrow lane on your left with bamboo products displayed outside the shops.
Nezu has been a center of bamboo crafts for over 300 years. The shops here still use traditional techniques to make baskets, tea whisks, and architectural elements.
Return to the main street and continue west 250m. The garden entrance is on your left, marked by a wooden gate.
The former estate of the Iwasaki family (founders of Mitsubishi) features a rare surviving example of a Meiji-era Western-style residence with a Japanese garden designed by the famous gardener Jihei Ogawa.
Walk 200m south. The shrine entrance is marked by a vermillion torii gate and a small bridge over a pond.
Founded in 1705, Nezu Shrine is one of Tokyo's oldest shrines. The azalea garden here has over 3,000 plants and is spectacular in late April. The tunnel of torii gates rivals Fushimi Inari on a smaller scale.
Exit the shrine at the east gate. Wander through the narrow residential lanes of Sendagi for 300m, heading northeast.
These quiet residential streets preserve the low-rise, human-scale fabric of old Tokyo. Notice the kerosene delivery boxes, the tiny neighborhood shrines, and the cats — this area is famous for them.
Turn right at the main road. Walk 150m north. The gallery is in a converted 200-year-old public bathhouse on your left.
This Edo-period sento (public bath) operated until 2000 before being converted into one of Tokyo's most respected contemporary art galleries. The original wooden architecture and high ceilings are preserved.
Continue north 200m to the west entrance of Yanaka Cemetery. Walk through the cemetery path heading north.
Yanaka Reien is one of Tokyo's largest and most atmospheric cemeteries. The cherry trees lining the central path make this one of Tokyo's best hanami spots — without the crowds of Ueno Park.
Exit the cemetery at the north gate. Turn right and walk 50m. The cafe is on your left with a noren curtain and wooden sign.
This 70-year-old kissaten (traditional coffee house) still roasts its own beans over charcoal. The owner, now in his 80s, has been working here since he was 15.
Walk 300m east along the main road to return to Nippori Station. Total walking distance: approximately 4.2 km.
You've walked through over 300 years of Tokyo history — from samurai estates to Showa-era coffee shops. Yanaka and Nezu are among the last places in Tokyo where the old city survives intact.
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